Explore the beautiful coastline and sprawling shop houses of Malacca.

When you mention the word “Singapore” to your typical, C-in-Geography American, images of 1970s National Geographic photos of Asians on bikes, easy going, arts-and-crafts peddlers in colonial shop houses, and old aunties serving head-intact duck specialties flood their mind.  The real Singapore is a modern, pan-island megapolis where you’re more likely to see a Starbucks patron with a laptop than any of these anachronisms. Fortunately, Malacca, Malaysia, is just a short bus ride from Singapore and a place where the old world dreams of misguided Americans can be realized.

Beautiful Chinese sculptures line the streets of Malacca.

Getting There

The most inexpensive way to get to Malacca is to take a bus.  Even though I was going on the busiest possible holiday, I was able to stop by the Queen Street Bus Terminal near Bugis and purchase a ticket for less than thirty dollars. Unfortunately you can’t buy a round-trip ticket, but I’m assured that return tickets to Singapore are typically plentiful and affordable.  However, because my trip was during the last day of the Chinese New Year public holiday, I had to scrounge for a return ticket.  I eventually found a pricey one ($48) through Luxury Tours and Travels.

Accomodation

My accommodations were right in the middle of Malacca’s historic district at the family-owned Tang House. The facilities were quaint and affordable.  For only RM35 (S$15) I got a one night’s stay, internet access, and a toast-and-egg breakfast.  My tiny room did have an aircon, and the sheets and floor were fairly clean. (Even people traveling with a family can get cheap rates at this place; a triple room costs only RM 70 a night.)

The Shop Houses

I didn’t have to worry about being bored in Malacca. Getting lost among the shop houses and talking to all of the eccentric artists provided hours of interesting entertainment. Hillary took us to her friend’s new art and t-shirt shop, the Baboon House. Located on Heeren Street, the Baboon House has a cafe and showcases art by Malaysian artist Ro Ger.

Eccentric artists like Stanley Ho will greet you as you meander the streets.

Along Jalan Tan Cheng Lock, I chanced upon the art gallery of Jehan Chan, one of Malaysia’s national artists. Mr. Chan, an artist for over 30 years, paints two different types of subjects: seascapes and koi. The koi are drawn in a realistic and colorful perspectives; the seascapes tend to be cubist renditions of Malacca’s shoreline.

At night many venues offer live music in both Malay and English.

The friendliest artist that I met was named Stanley Ho. An aging vegetarian that watercolors in his rundown shop, Mr. Ho will stop and talk to you for hours.  He’ll tell stories and share how Malacca has changed.  An inquisitive person, he’s not shy about asking you the details of your own life.

Jesuit Priest St. Francis Xavier left a legacy in Malacca.

Another reason to visit Malacca is its rich religious history.  A Jesuit priest names Francis Xavier is a legend in the community.  A statue of him sits next to the ruins of a church that he founded, and few things will give you a better sense of history than gazing upon the tombstones of the early colonists.  If you ask locals, you can hear far fetched tales about St. Francis. My friend Hillary told me a story about a ship that was once caught in a tumultuous storm.  Rather than panicking like the sailors, Father Xavier prayed for the sea to calm.  Sometime during the night, he dropped a cross into the ocean. After safely landing ashore, Francis saw a crab carrying his cross. In turn he blessed the crab and released it to the sea.  To this day, apparently, the crabs in Malacca have crosses on their back.In addition to Catholicism, Malacca has Christ Church, a century’s old Protestant church still in operation, and I also visited an interesting museum about how the area obtained its Islamic heritage.

Before you leave Malacca, there are certain dishes that you must try.  Along Jonker Street just a stone’s throw from the Tang House, is an unnamed restaurant that serves the most savory bowl of laksa. The flavors are stronger and the vegetables are fresher than anything you will be served in Singapore.  I was also very fond of the chicken rice balls, a dish exclusive to the area but available at many restaurants.

Chicken Rice Balls- a Malacca Specialty

I was able to visit Malacca after Hillary, the gal who blogs at Precious Living.com, invited me to her family’s Chinese New Year party. I felt that it was an honor to be invited because in many families only relatives attend these reunions. Hillary’s family was open and hospitable; Hillary’s friend Nadia and her boyfriend Nic Khoo were there as well.  It was a thrill to see Malacca and spend the holiday with them.

Additional Resources

A Tourist Map of Malacca